In the heart of the Andean Chocó – Slow Birding

Early departure from our hotel marks the beginning of our journey to the Chocó mountain region. The descent by private transportation along the western foothills of the Andes promises to immerse us in the rich ecosystem of the Andean forest. Upon reaching the entrance of the Tandayapa Valley, our first stop is the Alambi River bird reserve (1550 meters). Here, we will have the opportunity for easy birdwatching and photography around numerous hummingbird feeders and to admire the vibrant floral vegetation, rich in texture and colors. A short walk along the river will allow us to observe some typical species of the high subtropical forests: Golden-headed Quetzal, White-capped Dipper, Rufous Motmot, Uniform Antshrike, and Torrent Duck. Lunch will be served in front of the hummingbird feeders, providing a picturesque backdrop for our meal.

In the afternoon, we will continue our journey to our lodge nestled higher in the Tandayapa Valley (2200 meters) within the enchanting cloud forest. Once settled into our rooms, we can look forward to encountering new species of hummingbirds around the feeders, adding to the day's already memorable experiences: Booted Racket-tail, Violet-tailed Sylph, Collared Inca, Gorgeted Sunangel, and others. After dinner, we can search for several nocturnal mammals, including the Olinguito (Bassaricyon neblina), the first new species of carnivore to be identified on the American continent for 35 years. These nocturnal, tree-dwelling animals hide around the lodge, making it possible to take some superb shots.

Today, we'll explore the reserve's many trails, searching for the region's most emblematic species. We'll start at dawn with a nature spotting session around the lodge, where many insectivorous species come in the early hours to feed on moths and other insects, exhausted from their twirling dances around the lights. We then continue by exploring the higher areas of the reserve. A walk along the various forest paths will allow us to understand more about the ecological dynamics of these fragile ecosystems. For those with a keen eye for photography, we'll be looking for the most aesthetically pleasing textures and colors to complement our Portfolio: tree ferns, anoles, centrolenes, epiphytic orchids, heliconias, orthopterans, and so on. We'll take advantage of the late afternoon to perfect our photographic techniques around the feeding areas, where an incredible diversity of hummingbirds squabble in a very open, bright space (Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Collared Inca, Gorgeted Sunangel, White Booted Raquet-tail). Dinner and overnight at the Bellavista Lodge.

This morning, one of the most anticipated visits of the trip awaits us: the Paz de las Aves Bird Sanctuary. We will begin exploring this legendary reserve at the Cock-of-the-Rock Lek, where we can photograph the extraordinary courtship display of this unique and colorful Cotinga as it frolics in its display area. Situated at 1800 meters above sea level, this reserve is the stage for an incredible spectacle. Over the years, Angel Paz, the owner, has managed to habituate several species of Antpittas, including the Giant Antpitta, Yellow-breasted Antpitta, Chestnut-capped Antpitta, Ochre-breasted Antpitta, and Moustached Antpitta, along with a few other rarities, to come and feed at regular sites. This will give us the opportunity to photograph these typically invisible understory birds. We will also spend time near the hummingbird and fruit feeders to complete our list of Andean Chocó species. Lunch will be provided on-site. In the afternoon, we will continue our journey to our next stop, Milpe Bird Sanctuary. Here, we will take advantage of the various trails that crisscross this magnificent forest, where you can visit several leks of different species of manakins and witness the abundant mixed flocks near the multiple feeders.

In the early morning, we'll head to the two hides near the lodge, eagerly anticipating the arrival of certain understory species and rare frugivorous birds attracted by fruit. After over an hour, we'll ascend the observation tower to spot additional canopy species before returning to the lodge for breakfast. Later in the morning, we'll set off for Santa Rosa, a small reserve managed by a bird photographer, offering excellent opportunities to photograph various typically rare species in a tranquil setting. There’s plenty of activity to enjoy with hummingbird feeders, toucan, and tanager feeders. In the afternoon, you can relax at the well-equipped lodge or explore the various trails in search of the iconic Long-Wattled Umbrellabird and other fauna such as tapirs, agoutis, and brocket deer. Dinner and overnight stay at the same lodge.

Breakfast at the first light of dawn, then we'll take just a few steps around our Lodge to finalize our last observations and close-up photos near the lights that attract a multitude of Lepidoptera during the night. Then, we'll depart for the Silanche Bird Sanctuary, a Mindo Cloud Forest Foundation reserve about 600 meters above sea level. We'll dedicate the entire morning to searching for endemic species of the Chocó lowlands. This ecosystem is by far one of the most threatened in the country. Indeed, intensive agriculture of oil palms, bananas, palm heart, etc., has destroyed most of the forest in the western lowlands, except for a few plots now turned into reserves and some parts of the Esmeraldas province. We'll spend most of the morning on the observation tower patiently waiting for the extremely rich mixed flocks of rare and colorful birds. A box lunch will be served on-site. Then, we'll take the road back to our next lodge. Possible stops will be made along the dirt road to complete our observations of higher-altitude species. Arrive in the Mashpi region to settle into a new charming lodge in the heart of one of the country's most impressive bird reserves. Dinner and overnight stay on site.

Amagusa is one of those new must-visit reserves for enthusiasts of rare and emblematic species of the neotropics. The tremendous conservation effort by Doris and Sergio, the owners, has transformed this part of the upper Mashpi Valley into an iconic and exemplary reserve in Ecuador. Simply put, birds abound here. Among the various options available to us, a first dawn birding session will be possible with a large number of insectivorous species around the lodge, which visit the moth feeder in the early morning: Choco Vireo, Lemon-spectacled Tanager, Andean Solitaire, Barred Becard, Streaked Tuftedcheek, Choco Warbler, Uniform Antshrike, Choco Tyrannulet, as well as Rose-faced Parrot, Orange-breasted Fruiteater, and much more. You only have to step out of our rooms to enjoy the show. After a good breakfast and a list of at least 60 species, we'll take the main road in search of some other rare species from the forest edges: Golden-winged Manakin, Indigo Flowerpiercer, Double-toothed Kite, Green Thorntail, and Geoffroy's Daggerbill. The other photography sectors of the reserve are equally impressive: Rufous-throated Tanager and Green Honeycreeper. We won’t miss a moment or space in this magical place; a tip: bring extra batteries and memory cards—dinner and overnight at the same Lodge.

This additional morning on-site will allow us to complete our list with species not seen the previous day. After breakfast, it will be time to bid farewell to our hosts and hit the road towards the canyon of the Guayllabamba River to visit the Cueva de los Tayos. The Cueva de los Tayos Reserve is the best place in Ecuador to get close to the strange cave-dwelling Oilbirds. Managed by local farmers committed to preserving this resting site for these unique nocturnal birds, this private reserve also has a special mission to address the damage caused by agricultural activities in the region. Additionally, a long list of complementary birds can also be observed here, and we’ll make a few stops along the way to add new species. There is the possibility of making a cultural stop at the archaeological site of Tulipe, where the Yumbo civilization left behind beautiful stone infrastructure. Arrival in Quito by the end of the day.

After breakfast, we will take the short road to the Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve. Along the route, which runs alongside an ancient Pleistocene glacier valley, we will take some time to admire the magnificent landscape and, more importantly, to try to observe the rare Andean spectacled bear, the only native bear of South America. Then, we will explore the high-altitude grassy and bushy vegetation in search of hummingbirds, high Andean songbirds, the White-tailed deer, and the impressive Andean Condor. We will continue ascending to the antennas at around 4500 meters to observe the rare Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe. Depending on the weather and the time allotted to this search, we can reach the Papallacta hot springs area, where we can finalize our observations of high-altitude species and enjoy a hearty meal before returning to the Ecuadorian capital. Dinner and night on your own.