Darwin’s Endemics

Arrival at Mariscal Sucre International Airport in the Ecuadorian capital at the end of the day. Welcome, transfer, and short briefing about the upcoming trip. Depending on the flight schedule, we can stroll around our hotel to see some of the typical species of the inter-Andean valley.

Dinner and overnight stay in a standard hotel in the inter-Andean valley near the airport.

Morning transfer from your hotel to Quito National Airport, accompanied by one of our team, for your flight to the Galapagos Archipelago. Upon arrival at Baltra, the archipelago’s main airport, a health and environmental inspection is conducted to protect these fragile ecosystems from exogenous intrusion. Your naturalist guide will be waiting for you at the airport. You will go with him to the pier where your yacht is anchored. You will be welcomed on board by the entire crew and the captain, who will give you a quick welcome briefing and help you get to your cabins and familiarize yourself with the different areas of the ship. In the afternoon, we will set sail for Seymour Island. Blue-footed Boobies, Brown Noddys and Galapagos Shearwaters will accompany you during these first hours of sailing. Seymour Island is home to a large colony of Sea Lions, both species of Frigatebirds and the endemic Swallow-tailed Gull. The short trail will also take you through the Palo Santo trees (Brusera) and Opuntia cactus vegetation.

Last night's sea crossing took us to the northern coast of Isabela. Cape Albemarle is a former US military base from the Second World War. Along these rocky coasts, several colonies of winged cormorants and Galapagos penguins take advantage of the abundance of food linked to the presence of cold water currents to nest here.  Cabo Vicente Roca, located further southwest of the island, is a tuff cone that shelters some nests of the rare and endemic Dark Swallow. At their feet, large colonies of Galapagos Penguins use the basaltic coasts for nesting. Underwater, the rich and colorful underwater walls attract large numbers of sea turtles that come to feed.

This morning the boat will start the day facing Fernandina. This island is the youngest of all the islands in the archipelago. This is probably why its main volcano is also one of the most active in the world. The numerous eruptions and perpetual lava flows have changed and shaped the relief and appearance of this island. We disembark at Punta Espinoza, a rocky coastline lined with mangroves that is home to Galapagos Penguins and Flightless Cormorants, as well as many species of passerines and waders. A sail along the Bolivar Channel will allow us to observe the possible pelagic birds that come here to fish. If the captain allows us, we will approach the beach of Tortuga Negra, in order to try to see the Mangrove Finch, one of the rarest birds of the archipelago. In the afternoon, we weigh anchor and begin our long sail to the uninhabited and forbidden islands of Darwin and Wolf.

Darwin and Wolf are the northernmost islands of the archipelago. They are part of a different geological era and origin from the rest of the Galapagos. The first great attraction of this island is for divers, the presence of one of the largest biomasses of underwater species and in particular of large sharks, including the whale shark and the scalloped hammerhead shark. But for scientists and birdwatchers, the Vampire Ground-Finch is the star of the place. It is the last species of its kind described by science in the Galápagos. Genetically separated from the Sharp-beaked Ground-Finch, it is the 17th species of Darwin's finches to be found on the archipelago. This new taxon has adapted to the seasonal lack of seeds by turning to a hematophagous (blood) diet in times of shortage. Yes, this insignificant little bird supplements its diet, as its name suggests, by absorbing blood, by pecking the skin of fools, and then sucking the wound and feeding on its hemoglobin. Thanks to the zodiac, we will go along the different areas of the island to try to observe this rare bird.

Even further north is Darwin. A true pelagic sanctuary, this small island is bathed in the warmest waters of the archipelago. Due to its isolation, it is home to the largest colonies of Red-footed Boobies and Nazca Boobies in the archipelago. In addition to another population of  Vampire Ground-Finch, the micro endemic subspecies of the Galapagos Dove, darker than that of the central islands, can also be found here. Many pelagic and semi-pelagic birds also have a nesting place here. During migration, many shorebirds choose this island as a temporary stopover. We will explore the steep coastline of the island by sea in our zodiacs. the same as on Wolf Island, it is strictly forbidden to land on these islands. In the afternoon we start our long sail south to the central islands. The upper deck will provide an excellent platform for further sea-watching.

This morning we will anchor in front of James Bay. The long black sandy beaches, fringed by mangroves, are located a little east of Puerto Egas. Behind the beach are two brackish water lagoons, where several species of birds reside: Flamingos, Stilts, Pintails, Hawks, but also a huge colony of marine iguanas. The great attraction of this site is the presence of two endemics species of Sea lions. One colonizes the sandy beaches and the other the rocky volcanic coasts. After lunch, we will anchor in front of Playa Espumillas. This beautiful beach of golden sand, fringed by mangroves, is located in James Bay. Behind the beach, there is a brackish water lagoon on which the path overhangs, through a scented wood forest. You can walk freely to explore this new site or simply lie down on the sand to enjoy a moment of relaxation and probably come across some green turtles.

Genovesa Island, in the north-west of the archipelago, is essentially made up of the remains of a huge crater, now largely submerged. Nicknamed "Bird Island", its reputation is well deserved. On the coral sands of Darwin Bay, many species nest on the ground or in the scrub. Along the trails, you can also see many of the island's endemics. A panga ride along the cliffs of the submerged volcano will allow you to observe the amazing gliders that are the seabirds and, in particular, the Red-Billed Tropicbird, that plays in the air currents created by the cliffs. Walking along the cliff path, you can see many species of pelagic and semi-pelagic birds, as well as 4 of the 14 species of Darwin's Finches. In the afternoon, a visit to El Barranco will allow us to learn about the geological and volcanic past of the archipelago, through the prism of the numerous "pa-hoe-hoe" lava fields.

We will wake up this morning at the northernmost point of San Cristobal Island. Punta Pitt is reached via a yellow sandy bay, where it is common to see many shorebirds. The path that climbs to the top of the cliffs provides good opportunities to see and photograph a large number of finches and other passerines. On the higher ground, several colonies of boobies await us as well as frigate birds and other marine species. We will then walk along the east coast of the island to the islet Lobos. Here we will be able to observe a spectacular panoramic landscape, as well as dense Opuntia forests, where Mockingbirds, Finches and large colonies of Frigatebirds, but also numerous marine iguanas, nest. This will be an excellent time to talk about history and Charles Darwin's first landing in the Galapagos.

Española is the southernmost island of the archipelago and also one of the oldest. Its geographical isolation has led to the appearance of several endemic species. You will have to keep your eyes wide open to try to observe the Española Mockingbird or the local Giant Land Turtle species. The latter is a true miracle, as the population has grown from 14 survivors in 1960 to more than 2000 individuals today. But the star of the site is without doubt the Galapagos Albatross. From April to December, couples raise their young here. The love dance of these winged giants, made up of beak snapping and head bobbing, is particularly rhythmic, but without any arguments! In the afternoon you will go to a snorkeling site for a water walk in the company of schools of Royal Damselfish, Humphead Parrotfish and Galapagos Surgeonfish. An aquatic immersion that varies according to the time of year and the sea currents.

This morning we will wake up facing the northeast coast of Floreana Island, the southernmost of the archipelago. Floreana is home to two strictly endemic species, which we will look for in two very different locations. Firstly, from the port of Velasco Ibarra, we will go up to the Asilo de la Paz. This wooded hill is one of the best sites for the Medium Tree-Finch. But it is also the breeding ground for several species of giant tortoises. We will then return to our speedboat, and head for the Champion Islet, home to one of only two populations of the Floreana Mockingbird. During the sea crossing to the north, we will complete the day's observation with a search for pelagic birds and cetaceans.

From Puerto Ayora, we will go by private bus to the heights of Santa Cruz in order to look for typical species of different ecosystems, between original vegetation covers, agricultural areas and ecotones. We will focus on a habitat that we have not yet had the chance to visit (the miconia zone), in two particular sites: Media Luna and Cerro Crocker. It is here that we will try to observe our last endemic of the islands: the very rare and discreet Galapagos Rail. Around the secondary forests of Rancho Primicia we will complete our list with several typical highland passerines of this island. Late morning transfer to Baltra airport for our flight to Guayaquil, followed by our international flight.