On both sides of the Andes

After your arrival at Quito International Airport (2800 meters / 9200 ft high), your guide will welcome you and give you a short briefing about the upcoming trip.

We will be immediately transferred to your hotel close to the airport and checked in. Depending on our arrival time, we can stroll around the hotel and make our first observations and photographs of typical species of the inter-Andean valley around the feeding and watering areas.

Early departure from our hotel to the Chocó mountain region. After an hour of driving, we will make our first stop around the Calacalí area. This scrubby xerophytic hillside zone features arid vegetation and is known for being a prime spot to observe several rare species confined to the Guayllabamba Valley. The winding descent along the western foothills of the Andes will allow us to immerse ourselves in this Andean forest ecosystem. We’ll arrive at the entrance of the Tandayapa Valley, where we will visit the small ornithological reserve of the Alambi River (1550 meters of altitude). This first stop will allow us to easily observe and take pictures of many hummingbirds at the feeders and floral vegetation rich in textures and colors, inviting us to press the shutter happily. Lunch in front of the hummingbird feeders. In the afternoon, we leave for our next lodge, a little higher up in the Tandayapa Valley (1650 meters), in a transition zone between high subtropical and cloud forests. After settling into our rooms, we will go to the hide to continue our photography with several undergrowth species.

This morning, we will go quietly to the photographic hide near the lodge to wait for some of the undergrowth birds that come to drink from the artificial waterhole. Depending on the climate and the food resources available in the forest, species diversity can vary greatly. A second, more open lookout in front of the Lodge will allow us to spot other species. From the platform, we will wait for the tanagers and other colourful species. The lower part of the Tandayapa Valley is a transition zone where some species from the subtropical Chocó mix with other species from the more mountainous areas. The rest of the day will be spent exploring this vital part of Ecuador's biodiversity.

Depending on the species from the day before, the light, and the time, we will head to the most appropriate photographic sites to complete our portfolio of the lower Tandayapa Valley. In the afternoon, we’ll climb to our next lodge, which is located in the cloud forest (2250m). After settling into our rooms, we will take a moment to look at and photograph some new species of hummingbirds not seen until now. First trip at dusk in search of birds and nocturnal mammals, including the Olinguito (Bassaricyon neblina), a new species of carnivore belonging to the same family as raccoons and kinkajous. The lodge has several hides where you can get great shots of these nocturnal, tree-dwelling animals.

This primary forest in the middle of the Chocó mountain region will allow us to explore the biogeographic altitudinal stage of the subtropical rainforest, otherwise known as the "cloud forest.” Here, at an altitude of 2100 meters, we are in the midst of one of the richest ecosystems on the planet. We will spend the day walking the reserve trails for the undergrowth species. The edges of the wider trails will also allow us to observe more efficiently and try to understand the phenomenon of mixed flocks. Finally, the hummingbird feeders will help us relax while continuing our observations in this comfortable lodge. If we are lucky, we will be able to observe some of the endemic birds of the mythical Chocó mountain area in good photographic conditions.

This morning, one of our many options will be to visit the moth feeder at first light; this feeder attracts many insectivorous species that can generally be hard to see this well. In the middle of the day, we descend to the Mindo Valley, where we’ll make another photographic stop at the "hides" of the small San Tadeo reserve (1750 meters) for more tanagers and other passerines before heading to our charming new accommodation in the heights of the Mindo Valley. This day may vary depending on the photographic opportunities at the various known sites in the area. Dinner and overnight stay at the charming Sachatamia lodge.

n the early morning, we'll head to the two hides near the lodge, eagerly anticipating the arrival of certain understory species and rare frugivorous birds attracted by fruit.  After breakfast, we head to the small Milpe Reserve. This reserve, managed by the Mindo Cloud Forest Foundation, is in the heart of a subtropical foothill forest (1100 meters). The rest of the day, we will explore the trails that crisscross this beautiful forest and the surrounding semi-open areas. We will visit several leks of different species of manakins and spend some time taking photos at the various hummingbird feeders and fruit feeders in the reserve. Then, we'll take the road back to our next lodge. Possible stops will be made along the dirt road to complete our observations of higher-altitude species. Arrive in the Mashpi region to settle into a new charming lodge in the heart of one of the country's most impressive bird reserves. Dinner and overnight stay on site.

Amagusa is one of those new must-visit reserves for enthusiasts of rare and emblematic species of the neotropics. The tremendous conservation effort by Doris and Sergio, the owners, has transformed this part of the upper Mashpi Valley into an iconic and exemplary reserve in Ecuador. Simply put, birds abound here. Among the various options available to us, a first dawn birding session will be possible with a large number of insectivorous species around the lodge, which visit the moth feeder in the early morning.  You only have to step out of our rooms to enjoy the show. After a good breakfast and a list of at least 60 species, we'll take the main road in search of some other rare species from the forest edges.  The other photography sectors of the reserve are equally impressive. We won’t miss a moment or space in this magical place; a tip: bring extra batteries and memory cards— Dinner and overnight at the same Lodge.

This additional morning on-site will allow us to complete our list with species not seen the previous day. After breakfast, it will be time to bid farewell to our hosts and hit the road towards the canyon of the Guayllabamba River to visit the Cueva de los Tayos. The Cueva de los Tayos Reserve is the best place in Ecuador to get close to the strange cave-dwelling Oilbirds. Managed by local farmers committed to preserving this resting site for these unique nocturnal birds, this private reserve also has a special mission to address the damage caused by agricultural activities in the region. Additionally, a long list of complementary birds can also be observed here, and we’ll make a few stops along the way to add new species. There is the possibility of making a cultural stop at the archaeological site of Tulipe, where the Yumbo civilization left behind beautiful stone infrastructure. Arrival in Pintag by the end of the day. Night in a hight altitude Hacienda, near the Antisana National Park.

After breakfast, we explore the Paz de las Aves reserve. We descend on foot to the cock-of-the-rock lek (Rupicola peruviana sanguinolenta), where we can photograph the mating dance of this unusual Continga. This reserve, situated at an altitude of 1800 metres, is the scene of an incredible show. Angel Paz, the owner, has managed to accustom five species of Antpitta, a wood-quail, an antthrush, and a few other rarities to come and look for their food on regular sites. We will be able to observe and photograph these almost invisible undergrowth birds. We will also spend some time near the hummingbird and fruit feeders. We have lunch here and then return to the trails to get more good shots. In the late afternoon, we will take the road to the Antisana Ecological Reserve. 

After breakfast, we will take the short road to the Antisana Ecological Reserve. From a platform, we will scan the Condor nesting cliffs with a telescope. This site is where one of the most important populations of the country is found. We will then explore the grassy and scrubby vegetation of the highlands in search of hummingbirds and alto-andine passerines, and then climb to the expanses of Andean steppe called páramo. Diversity at this altitude (almost 4000 metres 13000 ft) is low, but the species visible here are all adapted to this particular ecosystem. Then, a short walk along the lagoon of La Mica will allow us to observe some aquatic birds. In the early afternoon, we return to the lower areas to have lunch around hummingbird feeders and to try to observe one of the rarest mammals of this ecosystem: the Spectacled Bear.

This morning, we will explore the super wet Páramo areas of the Cayambe Coca reserve. From the Papallacta Pass at an altitude of over 4000 metres / 13000 ft asl, we will search for Ecuador's main highland species in a mosaic of ecosystems: temperate forest, super humid páramo, lagoons, elfin scrub, and Polylepis woodland. If the weather is good, we will climb up to the antennas at an altitude of more than 4300 meters / 14000 ft in search of the most specialized species. We descend to the small reserve of Guango for lunch , where we will take time to explore the very productive Hummingbird´s garden. In the late afternoon, we continue our descent along the eastern foothills. We will cross a wide altitudinal gradient between elfin, high-Andean, and cloud forests to reach our next lodge, where we will spend two nights.

These high-altitude tropical forests are also called cloud forests because of the magical mist that covers them for part of the day. This almost constant humidity allows the development of vegetation rich in epiphytes, mosses, orchids, bromeliads, cacti, etc., as well as frogs, birds, and small mammals. In the afternoon, we will visit the scientific station of Yanayacu, where scientists have developed several research projects on the reproductive biology of Ecuadorian birds, as well as a project to study the parasites of several particularly attractive species of caterpillars, which will be the perfect opportunity for a macro photo session. One of the scientists from the station will present all these projects in more detail. After dinner, we will try to observe an owl (Choliba sp.) which might be a new species for science.

At first light, we will go to the lodge’s hides to observe and photograph some additional species. We will stay there most of the morning before taking a moment around the hummingbird feeders. Then, it will be time to take a long drive towards the eastern foothills of the Andes to our next lodge in the buffer zone of Sumaco National Park. Wil make a few stop along the road to visit a few humminbirds gardens and also explore this realy nice forets. We will arrive at WildSumaco Lodge on late afternoon. This lodge is set in the middle of the Amazonian subtropical forest (1500 meters) and has more than 500 bird species reported, a considerable number for a site in the upper Amazon.

WildSumaco is one of those isolated reserves which, although little known to the general public, are extremely rich in birdlife. Conservation and research projects have documented many species that are typically rare and difficult to observe. The accommodation infrastructure and numerous trails provide access to an ecosystem that has long been isolated because it is wedged between the Amazon foothills and the high Andes. Therefore, we will explore these two very different habitats over the next two days. We will explore the roadsides, the subtropical rainforest trails, and the forest creeks. We will also spend some time around the feeder areas and on the viewing platforms in front of the lodge.

The reserve at the foot of the extinct Sumaco volcano protects a huge area of untouched foothill forest dotted with clearings, ancient grasslands, and secondary forest in recovery. During this last morning, we will enjoy the hummingbird feeders which have registered among the most impressive lists in South America with 24 visiting species. Around the lodge are several hides where you can photograph the rarest birds in the area. After that, it will be time to drive back to the Ecuadorian capital. On the way, we’ll stop at a brand-new reserve near Baeza for some surprises—arrival in Quito at the end of the afternoon.

Early departure from Quito to the entrance of Yanacocha, a private reserve owned by the Ecuadorian Jocotoco Foundation, covering 960 hectares on the northwestern slopes of the Pichincha volcano. From the car park, we will take the path on the side of the volcano, which will lead us through typical Andean highland and temperate forest vegetation. We will be attentive to the numerous mixed flocks of high-altitude tanagers that feed in the heart of this dense forest. The hummingbird feeders along the short trail will give us beautiful views of some common highland species. A little further down, the small hummingbird garden of Zuro Loma allows us, with a lot of luck, to observe the rare Black-breasted Puffleg, one of the rarest hummingbirds in the world. Late afternoon return to the international airport for our flight back home.